The Climbing World Cup in Chamonix Mont-Blanc is one of the most highly anticipated events in the climbing calendar, drawing athletes and spectators from around the globe. Set against the stunning backdrop of the French Alps, this event promised three days of thrilling competition, showcasing the skills and endurance of the world’s best climbers. After the completion of this years competition earlier this month, we now look forward to the 2025 edition set to be held in Seoul. Let’s delve into what makes this event so special and the results from this years event.
A Brief History of the Climbing World Cup in Chamonix
Chamonix, often referred to as the birthplace of mountaineering, has a long-standing tradition of hosting climbing competitions. The Climbing World Cup has been held here annually since the early 2000s, growing in prestige and popularity over the years. The event includes disciplines such as lead climbing, speed climbing, and bouldering, each testing different aspects of a climber's abilities.
The picturesque setting of Chamonix, with the majestic Mont-Blanc towering in the background, adds to the allure of the competition. The combination of world-class climbing, breathtaking scenery, and a festive atmosphere makes this event a highlight of the summer season in the Alps.
The Venue and Atmosphere
The competition takes place in the heart of Chamonix, at Place du Mont-Blanc. This central location is easily accessible and surrounded by a range of amenities, including restaurants, cafes, and shops. The venue is designed to accommodate a large number of spectators, with stands providing excellent views of the climbing walls.
The atmosphere during the Climbing World Cup is electric. Fans from around the world gather to cheer on their favourite athletes, creating a vibrant and supportive environment. The evenings are particularly special, with the finals often held under the stars, accompanied by music, lights, and an enthusiastic crowd.
The Disciplines
Lead Climbing
Lead climbing is perhaps the most iconic discipline of the World Cup. Climbers aim to ascend as high as possible on a long, challenging route within a set time. The climber who reaches the highest point wins. This discipline requires a combination of strength, endurance, and technical skill, as climbers must navigate complex sequences of moves while managing their energy levels.
Speed Climbing
Speed climbing is a race against the clock. Climbers scale a 15-metre wall as quickly as possible, with times often measured in mere seconds. This discipline is all about explosive power and precision, as even the smallest mistake can mean the difference between victory and defeat. The speed climbing wall is a focal point of the competition, drawing large crowds eager to witness the thrilling head-to-head races.
Bouldering
Bouldering involves climbing short, but extremely difficult routes, or "problems", without the use of ropes. Each problem requires a unique solution, testing the climber’s strength, technique, and creativity. Bouldering is often considered the most spectator-friendly discipline, as the climbs are short and the action is intense. The bouldering problems are designed to challenge the competitors and entertain the audience, with spectacular moves and dynamic sequences.
The 2024 Results:
Speed
As climbers prepare for the Olympics in Paris, several personal, national, and continental records were shattered. China's Shaoqin Zhang won her first IFSC World Cup gold medal by beating Poland's Natalia Kalucka, who slipped during her run, with a time of 6.60 seconds. Jimin Jeong from South Korea, narrowly missing an Olympic ticket in the Qualifier Series, secured the bronze after defeating China’s Shengyan Wang in the small final.
In the men's competition, Sam Watson from the USA, a world record holder and Olympic hopeful, won his third gold of his career, recording three times under 5 seconds (4.83, 4.84, 4.88). China's Xinshang Wang took silver, and Erik Noya Cardona from Spain secured bronze after Ryo Omasa fell mid-run in the small final.
Paris contenders set impressive records: Italy's Matteo Zurloni set a new European record with 4.97 seconds, New Zealand's Julian David set the Oceania record at 5.44 seconds, and South Africa's Joshua Bruyns set a new African record at 5.73 seconds.
Lead
Many Olympic-qualified athletes competed in Chamonix as their final event before Paris, with notable absences including Janja Garnbret from Slovenia and Jakob Schubert from Austria. A series of Tops in the qualifying round led to ties in both the women's and men's competitions. In the semis, Toby Roberts from Great Britain led with a Top, followed by Olympic Champion Alberto Ginés-López from Spain, and a three-way tie between Sam Avezou, Shion Omata from Japan, and Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic. Sascha Lehmann from Switzerland, Colin Duffy from the USA, and first-time finalist Guillermo Peinado Franganillo from Spain completed the finals line-up.
In the women’s semis, Japan's Ai Mori led with 45+, Jessy Pilz from Austria came second, and Anastasia Sanders from the USA was third. Austrian rising star Flora Oblasser finished fourth, with the next ten women all reaching 35+. Mei Kotake from Japan, Mattea Pötzi from Austria, Mia Krampl from Slovenia, and Zélia Avezou from France took the last four finals places. 16-year-old Oblasser, finishing fifth in her first final, showed promise for the future.
In the women's final, Avezou set a highpoint of 44+, slipping off the last hold. Mei Kotake matched Avezou’s performance, taking the lead on countback. Jessy Pilz smoothly topped, anticipating Ai Mori to do the same. Despite hesitation on the final moves, Mori topped and took Gold, indicating her strong form ahead of Paris, although she might have preferred a tougher route.
The men's final route, an endurance-based challenge with crowd-pleasing moves, provided better separation. Colin Duffy set an early bar at 42+. Sam Avezou reached one move below, securing silver for the second consecutive year. Toby Roberts was awarded hold 39 after an appeal, displacing Alberto Ginés-López, who finished fourth on 38+. Duffy won his second IFSC Lead World Cup gold. All three podium finishers will compete at the Olympics in Paris next month.
What to Expect in 2025
The 2025 edition of the Climbing World Cup in Seoul promises to be one of the best yet. Here are some key highlights to look forward to:
Enhanced Spectator Experience
Organisers have planned several improvements to enhance the spectator experience. These include larger viewing screens, improved seating arrangements, and better facilities. The goal is to make the event as enjoyable and accessible as possible for everyone attending.
Live Streaming and Media Coverage
For those unable to attend in person, the event will be live-streamed, with extensive media coverage across various platforms. This ensures that climbing enthusiasts around the world can follow the action in real-time, experiencing the excitement of the competition from the comfort of their homes.
Community Events and Workshops
The Climbing World Cup is not just about the competition; it’s also a celebration of the climbing community. Various events and workshops are planned, including climbing clinics, gear demonstrations, and meet-and-greet sessions with the athletes. These activities provide opportunities for fans to learn from the best and engage with the climbing community.
The Climbing World Cup in Chamonix Mont-Blanc 2024 showcased phenomenal performances as climbers prepared for the upcoming Olympics in Paris. Record-breaking feats, intense competition, and remarkable displays of skill highlighted the event, with athletes pushing their limits and setting new benchmarks in both Speed and Lead disciplines.
Looking ahead, the excitement continues to build as we anticipate the Climbing World Championships in Seoul in 2025. This will be a historic event as it marks the third time the World Championships are held in Asia and the first time in South Korea. Seoul, a bustling metropolis with a population of around 10 million, made its debut on the IFSC World Cup circuit in 2022 and has since hosted several prestigious climbing events. The city is set to welcome climbers from around the globe for the World Championships, promising a thrilling competition and a vibrant cultural experience.
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